Friday, May 13, 2016

Honeymoon Revisited

Many times when we are hanging out, Isaac and I reflect upon the highlights of our honeymoon - the unreal beauty of Lake Como, the charming countryside town of Montelupo, the surprisingly tropical southern part of France and the picuresque buildings of Paris. But just as often, we remember other quirks from it too - that shady rental car agent in Paris, the sneakily expensive breakfast in Nice and the brazen gypsies in Rome.

We had a lot of unforgettable experiences on our honeymoon, but not all of them were scrapbook worthy. So I thought it'd be fun to revisit our honeymoon and cover a few tips we learned along the way.

Rental Car vs. Public transportation

Coming from America, having a rental car was something we assumed we would need for travelling around Europe. But if you think about Europe, it's smaller than the States and there is less distance between many large cities.

We encountered so much trouble because of our rental cars in France in Europe. Reservations were a hassle, followed by being told at pick-up that our promised vehicle was unavailable, the only option being to rent a more expensive BMW sedan. And then the morning we had to drop off our BMW in Nice. It was an intense half hour suitable for the television show "The Amazing Race". We had to find the hidden drop-off point in a city unfamiliar to us. It literally came down to the final minute before we would be charged for another day. Isaac ran ahead with the car keys and paperwork, while I trailed behind with our luggage calling "I'll find you, don't worry, just go!" after him.

I showed a picture of this lovely train station in Nice before. Although our train was delayed over half an hour, we didn't mind at all, having just completed our relay race to return that cursed rental car.


On board the train from France to Italy, with a full day of travelling ahead of us, I can only see relief in our faces, and for Isaac gratitude to have a break from driving.


After crossing into Italy, we got off the train at the Genoa station, which is so tiny that it had no staff or restrooms. After an hour of dragging our luggage down picturesque streets, boarding a bus with no tickets and meeting a friendly pedestrian, we made it to the pick-up point of our second rental car.

Besides the logistics of getting a rental car, don't forget about the trouble of driving in a foreign country. You need an international driver's license, which luckily Isaac had because of business trips. Signs and symbols can be unfamiliar, and traffic laws unknown. On the highways there are sensors and cameras which measure your speed and record your plates. Several months after returning from our honeymoon, a gift arrived in the mail from France in the form of a speeding ticket.

There were a few moments when having a rental car truly felt worth it though. That was when we stayed in remote, country areas with small roads and scarce public transit. Having a car in Lake Como and in the Tuscan countryside was a treat. We felt that wonderful sensation of being alone on the road, surrounded by so much unfamiliar beauty.

We did utilize public transportation as well - subways, trains and buses in Paris, Florence and Rome. Long distance trains were pleasant and city buses were crowded yet efficient. Paris and Rome's subway systems were old and grungy, as you might expect for cities of their age. But being a bit uncomfortable because of the grit of public transit is a lot easier to stomach than feeling the stress and burden of a rental car.


If we had not gotten a rental car, I wouldn't have experienced the excitement of riding along these tiny, winding streets, with colorful buildings and homes stacked together on the mountainside, sloping down towards Lake Como. But still, if at all possible, I think it's best to avoid the hassle of rental cars


Food

One of the best things about travelling to new places is trying out the food. Whether it's some foreign country, or just a different side of town, finding new restaurants must be one of our favorite hobbies.

We were able to eat many tasty local foods on our honeymoon. But it seems like there is a line you have to balance. Factors that can push you to one side or another are price, personal taste and mood. During our two weeks in Europe, we flipflopped on either side of the line. Two faux pas come to my mind quickly.

Our second night in Paris, we ate at a cute cafe on the street where we were staying. I ordered a tasty sounding salad, playing it safe and having previously learned that the French make incredible salads. Isaac impressed me by ordering something very French called fois gras. It just so happened my camera was out and ready when he received his dish, and I captured this telling gesture.


That is the Isaac thinking face - as his mind linked the dish with an unsavory memory. Fattened duck liver in spreadable form with crunchy bread. He ate a hearty portion of it as we googled about how fois gras is made and discussed what a repulsive concept it is.

We had been travelling for about a week when we ate dinner at a seafood restaurant in Como, Italy. I wanted to save a little money, and so decided to just order a side salad instead of a full fish entree. It was called a Sicilian salad, and when I googled it pictures of rainbow colored salads came up. What arrived in front of me was a dinner plate full of sliced tomatoes with pepper, olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette swirled across it. That was all. So I ate tomatoes for dinner. No basil, no cheese, no bread, just tomatoes. I guess I was so disappointed that I didn't feel like taking a picture that night.

After these experiences, Isaac and I learned the balance between enjoying local flavors, being reasonable and following our own tastes. So sometimes we skipped the Italian pastas and breads in exchange for what we were truly craving in the moment - McDonald's and Korean food in Florence, Chinese soups and stir-fry in Rome. These meals, which satisfied our cravings and provided a much needed break from bread and pasta, also saved us money, being significantly cheaper than the standard Italian food which must be ordered a la carte.

Planning vs. Meandering

When you're getting ready for a trip, there is always the matter of planning. Some people prefer to plan every moment, others float freely. We oscillated somewhere in between. If you are visiting somewhere famous, like Paris and Rome, it seems obvious that there are key attractions you've heard of or that others recommend to you. But similar to what we discovered with food, our schedule needed a healthy balance between local "must-sees" and relaxed wanderings.

I had a rough outline of ideas to explore in each place we stayed. Sometimes these sights ended up living up to the hype, other times they fell short. Paris museums were impressive and unforgettable, yet the palace of Versailles was disappointing. It is far from the downtown area, you must wait in a very long line before entering (even if you have a special pass like we did), and the insides are lackluster. Wandering in the gardens seemed nice, but on random days (like when we visited) you must pay additional admission which we weren't willing to do. I told Isaac that the Biltmore House (which ironically was modeled after French chateaus like this one) is way better and we'll have to visit there.

We did love that courtyard though. It felt like Alice in Wonderland with so many bright colors and unique patterns.


Our first coffee in Italy was at a picturesque cafe in Como. We admitted it didn't taste much different than a good latte elsewhere but enjoyed it nevertheless. This was an item in my mental to-do list. "Have espresso in Italy." Check.

A few days later, in the adorably quiet town of Montelupo, we stopped for refreshments at a small convenience store. Isaac got a popsicle shaped like a foot, and I got another latte. This moment was perfect, unplanned and just naturally occurring on a quiet afternoon sitting in plastic chairs at a plastic table. I think about it more often than that first planned coffee experience.


By the time we arrived in Rome, the last city of our trip, we had decided to trim down our list of must-sees and enjoy as much of our time away from the tourist crowds as possible. Taking a city bus to the Pantheon was a fun experience, and that temple was truly a spectacular sight. Wandering northeast through the small cobbled streets of Rome was just as fun, looking through small shops, stopping for tiramisu, our only objective being to reach the Villa Borghese Gardens. I shared about this place before, with its wondrous mature trees and sweeping views over the ancient city.


This park was not in any guidebook we skimmed or on any list of must-sees. Rather, we saw the large green colored area on google maps, about halfway between the Pantheon and our accommodations, and decided to check it out. This kind of spontaneous meandering and fun is often more enjoyable and fulfilling than an hourly schedule.


Sometimes when we are talking about our honeymoon, we do it in the form of questions. What was your favorite meal we ate in France? If you had to live in one of the places we visited, which would you pick? Usually our answers are different, but one topic we both agree upon is Lake Como. If had to boil our honeymoon down to one tip or suggestion, it would probably be "go to Lake Como."

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